Weekend in the Wild Coast

We took a short weekend holiday break to Kei Mouth which is located about 1 hours drive north of East London and is effectively the start of what is known as the Wild Coast. We took the N2 route out of East London heading towards Mthatha before turning off right towards Kei Mouth. From the N2 turn off it is approximately a 30km drive down to Kei Mouth.  The road down is surprisingly very good with tarmac all the way down that takes a scenic route through rolling hills before you catch sight of the coast.

We were staying at a place called Whispering Waves which is a very apt name as our rustic cottage overlooked directly onto the waves breaking on to the beach below us. Kei Mouth has a few shops, post office and supermarket, restaurant and a garage and is well geared up to serve the holiday makers that come here to stay - many on a self catering accommodation basis.

It is advisable to travel to this area in a 4x4 as there are lots of off-road dirt tracks where you can drive and explore this rugged coastline. We took a drive down to the Kei River Mouth on the Saturday afternoon and tried our hand at fishing off the rive bank. Sadly although the fish were biting we only caught barbel and not the cob which we were after. The weather over the whole weekend was lovely but rather chilly in the evenings which is to be expected in late May.

On the Sunday morning we took the river crossing (only R120 per car return trip) over the Kei River to explore the coast further up and visited the Trennerys Hotel which is a lovely hotel set high up overlooing the Indian Ocean. The Trennerys is a popular holiday resort with lovely accommodation, swimming pool and tennis court plus play areas for the younger ones. They have a very nice bar with full size snooker table and DSTV. From the hotel you can walk down to the lagoon and beach below. The beach stretches for miles with several coves and inlets visible and it is not uncommon to see the odd cow roaming around on the beach. After our walk we enjoyed a nice cold refreshing drink at the hotel before setting off to enjoy a picnic beside the Kei River. The locals wander about from early morning selling locally made crafts and will even make things to order if they dont quite have what you are looking for.

It really was a delight enjoying braais in the evenings whilst chatting and watching the waves breaking in the ocean below our cottage. The whole Wild Coast stretches for a long way northwards from here and is worth exploring. There is a good choice of accommodation from the basic and simple to the luxury end of the market. We recommend you add the Wild Coast to your South Africa Holiday itinerary.

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Weekend away in Hogsback

Hogsback Village is located halfway between Alice and Cathcart in the Amatola Mountain range in the Eastern Cape of South Africa. We decided on a last minute weekend away to the village of Hogsback leaving our house in Port Alfred and travelling on a route that took us through Bathurst, Grahamstown, Fort Beaufort, Alice and finally into Hogsback. We arrived at our accommodation - Maylodge Cottages - located in a wonderful setting just off the main street. There were six of us staying for the weekend in a delightful thatched cottage (Heron House) with extensive gardens surrounding the house. Our two miniature schnauzers had come along and immediately explored the gardens and took an interest in the monkeys high up in the trees.

The cottage accommodation comprised three bedrooms and three bathrooms with a lovely open plan living area with a fireplace as the centrepiece. Hogsback is surrounded by mountains and a hikers paradise. Its elevated position also means that you do get snowfall in the winter months on the mountains and occasionally in Hogsback village itself. In July they even have what they call "Christmas in July" when the village usually buzzes with people relaxing over a long weekend around log fires.

On our first morning in Hogsback we took a short drive down Oak Avenue which is just off the main high street. We parked and then set off through the Arboretum and up to The 39 Steps Falls. The leaves on the trees are turning beautiful colours and the walk up to the waterfalls is a gentle one. Look out for the huge Giant Redwoods dotted about in the forests.

In the afternoon we took a drive out down Oak Avenue again but this time turned up Forest Drive and then stopped off to walk the hike up to the Kettlespout Falls. This is a longer hike and more strenuous up some steeper steps and inclines but the view is worth it when you reach the top. From the top you can see the waterfalls cascading down and enjoy the views that stretch for miles on a clear day.

Later that day we drove out on the R345 to visit St Patrick on the Hill church which really is quite beautiful. From there we continued on past the Little Candle Factory and onto the Labyrinth - follow the signs for The Edge. Here we stopped and walked around the Labyrinth beofre enjoying a well earned coffee and cake in their cafe/restaurant. After a long day we returned home to enjoy a log fire and scrummy food.

The next morning we sat out by our cottage enjoying the sunshine and views and then headed off down Wolf Ridge Road along a dirt track enjoying the views and then stopping off to have our picnic by the dam. Sadly it was now time to head for Port Alfred and we decided to take a different route home taking the dirt track route to Seymour and then onto Fort Beaufort. This route is recommended for 4x4 vehicles only as the roads are very rough in places and a good clearance is needed.

All in all we had a very relaxing break in Hogsback and it is easy to see why many people from East London and Port Elizabeth visit here for weekend breaks. The air is clean and it is lovely and quiet a real getaway from suburban life. The picturesque village of Hogsback is approximately 1.5 hours from East London.

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There's more to South Africa Game Reserves than just visiting Kruger National Park

We visited Pumba Private Game Reserve and Spa for a weekend in March 2014. Pumba Private Game Reserve is the 3rd largest privately owned Game Reserve in the Eastern Cape. We drove from our offices in Port Alfred taking the Alicedale turnoff on the N2 between Grahamstown and Port Elizabeth. Pumba Game Reserve is signposted off to the right off the Alicadale Road.  As you turn into Pumba you follow a gravel road for about 1km and then take a left into the entrance to Pumba.  Once through the gates there is a further track leading up to the Main Lodge at Pumba. As you head up to the Main Lodge you will start to see animals immediately with Blesbuck, Warthog and Blue Wildebeest grazing close to your track.

Pumba Main Lodge is an impressive thatched set of buildings joined by wooden paths. Pumba has two lodges the Msenge Bush Lodge and the Pumba Water Lodge where we were staying. The Pumba Water Lodge has the advantage of overlooking a beautiful lake which each cottage can enjoy from their balcony. The lake is a haven for birds, a variety of buck and of course the hippo which you can see and hear grunting in the lake. Occasionally these lumbering giants will come out of the water close to your accommodation which is an amazing sight. We even caught sight of a giant tortoise across the other side of the lake as well as two of the white rhino that roam around.

We went on four game drives during our stay at Pumba which were a thoroughly enjoyable experience. Our guide was called Peter and he had recently joined Pumba after working at Amakhala Game Reserve. Morning game drives started at 01h30 and finished at approximately 02h30. After each game drive you are welcomed back at the lodge with a hot or cold towel to freshen up along with drinks in evening. On each of the game drives there is a chance to stop and have a hot drink in the mornings and a sundowner on the evening drives. Pumba Private Game Reserve has a lovely relaxed feel to it along and along with the Big 5 that are on offer to see here it makes for a real alternative to travelling up to Limpopo to Kruger National Park. Pumba has white lions as well as normal lion and we were lucky enough to see the male and female who are simply magnificent. Late on during one of our evening game drives we caught sight of four Bat Eared foxes which is quite a rare sighting.

Evenings at Pumba are so relaxing as you sit and eat your delicious dinner whilst looking over the lake. A warm fire is always on the go and creates a lovely atmosphere. We got to know our fellow travellers on our game drives and on our last evening we enjoyed dinner together. It was lovely to exchange stories of other trips whilst listening to the hippos grunting in the lake below us.

The accommodation at Pumba Water Lodge is first class with lots of space, a large balcony and even a plunge pool to enjoy. There is an excellent choice of Game Reserves in South Africa and Pumba in the Eastern Cape offers a real alternative to the more traditional Kruger Reserves. For more information on South Africa and what to see and where to stay visit where2stay-southafrica

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New Eastern Cape Coastal Route to Launch at Indaba 2014

Lions at Pumba

A holiday to South Africa is on most people's bucket list whether it be to achieve a lifelong ambition to go on safari or to visit the Mother City, Cape Town. Visitors travel from far and wide including the UK, Germany, France and the Netherlands and typically stay for a longer period than the average two week holiday. Many visitors choose to hire a car and travel long distances to ensure they take in fully all that this diverse country has to offer. One of the most famous touring routes is the Garden Route which starts around Plettenberg Bay in the Eastern Cape and stretches for 200km down to Mossel Bay in the Western Cape.

At this year's Indaba Tourist Show in May 2014 a new route is being launched called the Eastern Cape Coastal Route. The route will cover over 900km of stunning coastline from Tsitsikamma all the way up to Port St Johns in the Wild Coast. The Eastern Cape Tourism and Parks Agency and Open Africa formed the idea of a new tourist route to promote the Eastern Cape as a holiday destination. Many tourists may not be aware that the Eastern Cape has some of the best Game Reserves in South Africa. Stunning luxury safaris are available at Shamwari, Lalibele, Amakhala and Pumba all located in the Eastern Cape and offering Big 5 game viewing and in a malaria-free environment.

In addition the route will incorporate the Sunshine Coast a stretch of glorious beaches and popular holiday destinations from St Francis Bay up to East London.  Midway along the Sunshine Coast is the coastal town of Port Alfred built around the Kowie River which leads into the Indian Ocean.  Twice a year the Kowie River hosts annual rowing event for the SA Schools and Universities. There is a lovely marina here to accommodate the popularity of deep sea fishing off the coast here. All along the Sunshine Coast you will find coastal holiday spots like Port Alfred including Kenton-on-Sea, Kleinemonde, Hamburg and Kidds Beach.

The new Eastern Cape Coastal Route will offer a huge selection of activities for visitors from fishing, hiking trails, horse-riding on the beaches, diving and surfing. The launch of the route is coinciding with a government initiative to invest in tourism in the Eastern Cape.

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Weekend away at Oceana Beach & Wildlife Reserve - Port Alfred

This weekend we spent a night at Oceana Beach and Wildlife Reserve which is located just 5 minutes outside of Port Alfred on the Eastern Cape Sunshine Coast. Oceana is situated in an elevated position overlooking 7km of private beachfront in the maleria-free Eastern Cape. It opened its doors for business approximately
4 years ago and has established itself as a 5 Star Game Reserve and Spa Retreat.

The location is extremely private and has a really romatic feel about it. The main lodge has a lovely bar with seating around a log fire and separate dining rooms. It would make an ideal setting for a wedding function or to just getaway and pamper yourself for a few days. We arrived early evening and enjoyed some pre-dinner drinks on the patio overlooking the Indian Ocean whilst gazing at the amazing star-filled sky.

As we were celebrating a special occasion our hosts had organised us a private table for 2 in one of their lounges with a lovely fire going next to us. The food was of a very high standard and the service was excellent. After dinner we enjoyed our superb cappuccinos by the open log fire by the bar. Next to the bar area there is a very nice patio with steps leading up to the swimming pool and boma. If you are having your wedding here then Oceana have a large Bedouin-style tent that covers this area and makes for a wonderful setting.




That evening we stayed in a lovely chalet with large balcony overlooking the Reserve and Indian Ocean. Our room had a wonderful double bed with TV at the end of it. There was also a his'n'hers bathrooms with a bath with views outside in one of them. The rooms are extremely well appointed and very spacious.

In the morning we sat outside with our coffee and watch the sunrise and the animals roam around just a short distance away. Oceana is not a Big 5 Game Reserve but it still has Giraffe, Rhino, Zebra, Buffalo, Wildebeest and many other animals. There is a lovely fitness room near the Lodge with magnificent views plus an excellent Spa with a range of treatments available. Other activities on offer at Oceana include; Surf and Rock Fishing, Game Drives, Bush Picnic and Sundowners, 5 hole putting green on the Heli Pad, Steam Room and Games Room.

Visit Where2Stay-SouthAfrica for more South Africa Accommodation ideas. 

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Our friends trip to Bukela Lodge in the Amakhala Game Reserve in Eastern Cape

Des and I had the wonderful experience of staying at Bukela Lodge in the Amakhala Reserve a 5 star Eastern Cape Game Lodge last weekend.

We arrived at Bukela Lodge about 1 p.m. on Saturday afternoon and were welcomed by Steve, Kerry and Sandra.   We were taken through to the lounge where a welcome drink was waiting.    Sandra then went through the programme at the lodge and we signed the indemnity form – you can definitely see why this needs to be signed when you meet some of the guests who want to experience Africa.

Our room was everything that we had expected and more.    Each room is positioned so that it is completely private.    The rooms are large with a fire place, underfloor heating, air conditioning, jet spa bath, indoor and outdoor shower.    There is also a fridge in the entrance area plus a kettle and a large selection of tea and coffee. Each room has its own private patio – lovely to sit and relax and listen to the birds singing.

At 2.30 p.m. we went up to the main area where a scrumptious high tea was waiting.   Saturday was very hot with the temperature up to 30°C, so it almost seemed silly to be taking thick jackets, gloves and wearing denims at this stage, but the one thing I have learned is that Game Drives can get very cold, especially once the sun has gone down.

We set off on our game drive at 3 p.m. and drove towards a large plain where a cheetah with 5 babies had been seen in the morning.    We did not see the Cheetahs, but we did see lots of buck and Zebra.    We had been driving for a while when we came across the Buffalo who all seemed very happy.    There was 1 baby in the herd which was very cute.    The interesting thing I learned that day was that the baby buffalo goes through the mother’s back legs to drink – also for protection.   This section of the Amakhala Reserve did not have lions so the animals were pretty safe from predators as most of them were too big for the Cheetahs or any other predators.

We came across an area where the elephants had been earlier and followed their trail until we came across the elephants.   Steve decided this would be a good time to have our sundowners and watch the elephants.    Sundowners are always welcome – and that afternoon we had biltong and dried wors plus whatever drink you had ordered earlier.

The sun was going down as we followed the elephants for a while, amazing how quickly these enormous animals can walk.    The one elephant seemed a bit too interested in our vehicle – walked right up to it.  

On our way back to the camp we came across a snake in the road, Steve jumped down and showed it to us.    The reason the snake was around was that it had been so hot that day.

We got back to the lodge and were welcomed with a glass of sherry and then went to relax and clean up before dinner.

Dinner consisted of a starter of Camembert Cheese baked in pastry with Cranberry Sauce, butternut soup and a choice of a beef fillet or chicken plus a variety of vegetables.    The pudding was just the right end to the great meal.

We were extremely lucky with our fellow guests – a family of 5 from England and a couple from Durban.    Meals are eaten together and it lends to the whole experience, sharing what you have seen and finding out more about each other.

Wake up on Sunday morning was 6.30 a.m.    The amazing thing is that when I am in a game reserve, 6.30 is a good time to wake up, but when I am at home that seems very early.

The start of the day was cereals, toast, rusks, and biscuits with coffee, tea and orange juice and then we were off on the game drive.    We went in another direction and saw Hlosi Game Lodge.    We were looking for Rhino and Giraffes.   It did not take us long to find about 6 giraffes, mainly male with a couple of youngsters with them. We then drove around – the great thing about a good ranger is that they explain so much about the area you are in, picking up droppings to show you interesting things about it.   We found a lot of Rhino droppings and after our coffee break found a family of Rhinos, mother, father and baby.     These are such weird looking animals and when you look at them happily grazing you wander how anyone can injure or kill them for their horns.    We were close to a waterhole and watched them saunter across to drink water – watched by about 6 giraffes.   On our way back to the lodge we saw a lot of zebra and some wildebeest with of course a good number of buck.

Brunch is served soon after you arrive back at the lodge – fresh fruit and yoghourt followed by a cooked breakfast which will definitely mean that you do not feel hungry for many hours. After brunch it is time to relax until 2.30 p.m. and high tea.    

Sunday afternoon was very cold – the wind had arrived and a definite cold front was on its way through.    We now met the new guests, a couple from Hungary.    Perhaps this is the time to point out that although you are in a reserve with rangers who know their way around, the animals are wild and they do not have collars with radios in them, so the rangers have to find the animals on their own.    The other important thing to realize is that you have to listen to your Ranger – he is there to protect you and keep you safe, so if you do not listen to him, you put not only yourself in danger but the Ranger as well.

We were driving along the main road and just turning the way we had gone the day before when we saw the Cheetah and her cubs crossing the road ahead.    What a sight, mother and 5 babies.   We all agreed that this mother has got the obedience thing down to a fine art – those babies did exactly what they were supposed to do, no questions asked.    We spent a lot of time watching and looking for her and were really lucky to see the mother hunting an Impala (unfortunately for her, she did not manage to do it).    We spent a lot of time with the Hartebees and other buck and saw a really beautiful herd of Impala and Zebra.    It was really cold and Steve took us to a waterhole which was sheltered from the wind for our sundowners.

We all voted to go back to the lodge as the weather was really miserable and we were all very cold.    Steve took us up to an area where we looked over the plains surrounding the Bushman’s River (unfortunately very low due to the drought at the moment).    

Sunday night’s dinner was once against something to tempt your taste buds and ensure that you would not be hungry.     

On Monday morning we went to the other section of the Amakhala Game Reserve where the lions are.    In this section there is also Black Rhino and lots of buck.

We found the lions quite quickly and were really lucky as they decided to change their positions – I think they were cold and looking for sun.    We had a great view of the 2 lions walking and the male is really a magnificent animal.  

We got back to Bukela quite late that morning and by the time we had brunch it was time to say good-bye and get ready to face reality.

I would recommend Bukela to anyone – the service is absolutely amazing and from the moment you arrive you are made to feel extremely important and that nothing could be too much trouble to ensure your happiness. For more information on where to stay and places to see in South Africa visit where2stay-southafrica

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Horse Safari Game Ride in South Africa's Eastern Cape

On one of my trips to South Africa we decided to do something a little bit different and went on a Horse Safari Game Ride. Fish River Horse Safaris are based just outside Port Alfred in the Eastern Cape. When you arrive you are met by one of the guides who takes you through to get you all kitted out. Rider safety is taken quite seriously here and proper hard riding hats have to be worn. You then gather round to be allocated your horse. This is good chance to meet your fellow riders and to ascertain what level of experience everyone has at riding. Fortunately we are all in pretty much the same boat and there are no expert riders.The guides are very helpful and pick out a suitable horse for you based upon your height and weight and competency. All the horses look extremely well looked after and are very good natured. 

We had chosen to do a Game Ride which lasts approximately 2.5 hours however you can choose to do a mixture of a Beach and Game Ride (its next on my list when I go back). The additional beach ride aspect takes you down through the dunes and onto a secluded beach where you can ride through the glorious sea. We set off on our trip and at the start its all about getting to know your horse and making sure you feel comfortable. The guides, although young, are very helpful and experienced. We head off through the reserve, up and down a few hills before reaching open grassland where we let the horses exercise a bit and soon we are galloping along. Now I am no expert so galloping takes a bit of mastering but if you dont mind the bouncing up and down and are game for a laugh you will really enjoy yourself. We are soon riding through thick valley bushveld an dopen plains and spotting buffalo, giraffe, zebra, wildebeest, buck, impala and duiker. 

The guides help us to spot various animals and ensure we do not disturb them. I had two highlights on my ride. The first was being able to get really close to a group of giraffe who really didnt mind is. Some great photos were taken by our group. It's so nice to be able to experience the complete tranquility as opposed to groups of jeeps or minibuses dashing about. This is a whole new experience. My second highlight was spotting the rhino. Of course we had to be very careful and we maintained a good distance but it was amazing to sit on the horse and watch three rhino in the field ahead. I cant pretend that my bottom wasn't a little tender the following day but it was well worth it and i will be going back to try the beach and game ride next time.

For more information on activites to do during your stay in South Africa visit www.where2stay-southafrica.com 

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My First Experience of Deep Sea Fishing in South Africa

My first ever trip deep sea fishing in South Africa starts with an early morning wake up call at 4.30am. I am staying at a lovely guest house in Port Alfred situated on the coast of the Eastern Cape. With a sense of excitement, I kick start my day with a strong coffee and prepare food to take with me for what I hope will be a successful days fishing. The night before I took some Stugeron (seasickness tablets) just to be on the safe side as I am not sure what the Indian Ocean has in store for me. We make our way down to the boat and prepare everything. We have taken 2 boxes of fresh sardines for bait.

Port Alfred has a lovely marina with a river that flows into the Ocean. We have timed our exit from the Kowie River mouth to coincide with low tide to ensure we have the smoothest exit to the Ocean. Nevertheless we put on our life jackets and ride the waves at the river mouth out to the vast Indian Ocean. We are riding in a Butt Cat which is superb for the Ocean with the ability to ride over the oncoming waves. Our skipper is Des, an experienced fisherman who knows the waters off this area of the Eastern Cape, and asks us to hold on as he picks up speed crashing over the waves in front of us. This is great and a really exciting start to the day completely taking my mind off any potential seasickness.

We head out for about 30 minutes before we drop our first anchor. Once we are settled we start to bait up our rods and drop our first lines. There are three of us on the boat so Des gives us expert advice on how to bait up and some tips on what to do when you get your first nibble on the line. I can’t believe how far down my line goes before my weight hits the bottom! As soon as my line reaches the bottom of the Indian Ocean I can feel the fish biting. This is amazing I didn’t expect to feel the bites so firmly. I now try and put into practice Des’ tips on making a strike. After a few fruitless attempts I make a proper strike and I reel in quickly. Of course it’s a long way up and my arms are doing all the work but soon I can see the fish on the end of my line. The feeling is amazing! 

Des shows me how to bring the fish on board and then how to remove the hook from the fish. The fish is too small to keep but the taste of the catch has left me wanting more. Having returned the fish to the Ocean I bait up again. We spend about an hour in the first spot before moving on to a new spot. The Ocean is relatively calm and the weather is superb – always remember your suntan cream as the breeze out here can be very deceiving. 

We stop for lunch halfway through the day to enjoy homemade sandwiches and cool drinks. Bobbing around on the Ocean we suddenly hear the noise of a familiar spurt of water made by a whale. Des points out the southern right whale about 200 metres away – incredible to think these mammals are cruising around near where you are fishing. We finish lunch and move on to a new spot. We enjoy in total about 8 hours fishing and catch enough good size fish for dinner later that evening. During the afternoon we spot lots of white water about a mile away from us – Des heads his boat towards the area and we are suddenly surrounded by thousands of dolphins and seals as far as the eye can see. This is an incredible sight and I take lots of photos to capture the moment.

As we return back to Port Alfred I look back on an amazing first experience of deep sea fishing in South Africa. South Africa has miles of coastline with a great choice of accommodation to be found from Guest Houses, Bed and; Breakfasts, Lodges and Self Catering venues. From Cape Town all the way up the Garden Route to beyond Durban there are numerous beach holiday places to stay where you can take a fishing boat charter. 

For more information on other things to do in South Africa and places to stay – see www.Where2Stay-SouthAfrica.com

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